A creamy potato soup by way of Ecuador is a golden way to warm up

The diced avocado piled in a pale green mound atop the steaming bowl of soup won me over immediately. It was an “I should have thought of that” moment I had years ago in a restaurant in Quito, Ecuador. I regularly garnish chili with avocado, why not soup?

That observation was just the start of the enchantment as I dug into the creamy, golden potato and cheese soup, locro de papa, which is a staple of Ecuadorian cuisine. It’s a rich and hearty belly-warmer that’s simple to make and can easily be a main course. I came up with this version so I could make it part of my regular soup-season lineup.

A key ingredient in the classic recipe is achiote — also called annatto — a ruby red, mild tasting spice, which imparts a gorgeous, orange-red color to dishes. It’s common in dishes throughout Latin America, so I was able to pick some up at a Mexican market near me, and it is also sold online. But if you don’t have achiote, you can substitute a combination of sweet paprika and turmeric, which, together, add a similar hue and mild earthy flavor. Add the spice, along with garlic and ground cumin to onion that’s been softened in a little oil, then add potatoes and broth or water, and simmer until the potatoes are tender. Yukon Golds’ color and creamy texture work especially well here, but Russets would be fine, too.

After pulling some of the potatoes out of the pot and chopping them to add back later for a nice textural contrast, the rest is pureed into thick, golden creaminess. Then milk and shredded Monterey Jack cheese are stirred in, adding alluring richness and enough protein to make it a main course.

Served topped with more cheese and a burst of fresh green from sliced scallion, cilantro and — yes — that buttery, diced avocado, it’s an unforgettable soup to warm and fulfill you throughout the season.

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